Labuan Bajo is a small harbour town at the western tip of Flores island, Indonesia. It's the departure point for Komodo National Park, and also a place worth lingering in on its own. We were there in March, with unpredictable weather that closed part of the park — but the day still turned out to be one of the most memorable of the trip.
Labuan Bajo, a great base
Labuan Bajo's airport is small but well connected to Bali and Jakarta. The town itself is lively, with a seafront lined with restaurants and tour agencies. Boats leave every morning for the various islands of the park.
In the evening, the hill overlooking the bay offers a sunset over the islands and anchored boats. It's one of the most beautiful viewpoints we've seen in Indonesia, and it takes just a few minutes on foot to reach.
Rinca Island and the Komodo Dragons
In March, difficult weather conditions had closed access to Komodo Island itself. So we headed to Rinca, about an hour by boat from Labuan Bajo. It's the other major island in the national park — less well known, but just as rewarding for seeing dragons.
The boat docks at a small port with a ranger station, a museum and facilities dedicated to learning about the species. The guides are all locals who know the island and the animals' habits. The visit is done in small groups, on foot along marked trails.
The Komodo dragons are right there, sometimes very close. To be honest: this is more of a managed sanctuary than truly wild observation. The animals are used to human presence and make no effort to flee. That doesn't diminish the power of the encounter, but the atmosphere is closer to Bohol than the Serengeti.
The most striking scene
We witnessed something fairly rare: a confrontation between a female and a male over a juvenile. The female was eating her own young, and the male moved in to take it from her. Cannibalism is a documented behaviour in Komodo dragons — adults regularly prey on juveniles. Watching it unfold in real time, with the raw power these animals display, leaves a lasting impression. The guides watched calmly without intervening, which is the right approach.
Manta Point and Turtle Point in the same day
One of the advantages of excursions from Labuan Bajo is that they often combine the Rinca visit with several snorkelling stops in the same day. After the park, we entered the water at Manta Point, a site known for its manta rays in March. The rays were there, calm, at very shallow depth. No diving equipment needed to see them.
The second stop, Turtle Point, lives up to its name. Green turtles resting on the coral, clear water, few people. The day wraps up on a small island for a lunch break before heading back to Labuan Bajo in the late afternoon.
The marine life around the park's islands is exceptional and often overshadowed by the fame of the dragons. If you make the journey here, plan at least a full day by boat with snorkelling.
Practical tips
Book your excursion directly with the agencies in Labuan Bajo — prices are comparable and you can adapt the itinerary based on the day's weather. In March, the rainy season is winding down in this region and waves can close certain routes. Build in a day or two of flexibility if you have specific spots in mind.
For the Rinca visit, mornings are preferable: the dragons are more active before the heat builds.
When to go
The dry season from April to November offers the best conditions for sailing and snorkelling in the park. March is still viable but with weather uncertainties. Avoid January and February, the wettest months and the roughest for sea travel.
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