The Antarctic Peninsula is the ultimate penguin destination — three species breed here in vast rookeries: gentoo (the largest populations), Adélie, and the chin-strapped and distinctly named chinstrap. Expedition cruises from Ushuaia cross the Drake Passage in two days to reach landing sites like Port Lockroy, Paradise Bay, Neko Harbour, and the famous gentoo colony at Cuverville Island. November-December is peak breeding with eggs and noisy courtship; January-February brings fluffy chicks; March sees the first fledging. Combines with humpback whales, leopard seals and the surreal landscape of tabular icebergs.